One cheesecake to rule them all

I remember one fateful day in late 2018 when I opened an email from the London office: “Do you know of any places in Barcelona that prepare San Sebastian? burnt cheesecake The vine style? On Instagram it’s sweeping, hey.” Poor thing, I didn’t know the tragedy he chewed (well, chewed, chewed a little). The his fashion cream cheese cakeunlike the icon itself, it has ended up sticking (yes, another bad joke).

Today, all the restaurants that until two days ago served you “just water” at your table—which they have to offer for free, by the way, a rule that only restaurants with soul made in the USA meet—have The Vineyard-style cheesecake at his assets. Just finished, of course: hot, creamy, salty to the max and often with so little rennet it looks like the goat is kicking you in the mouth. I’m not talking about intense and balanced recipes like those of Jon Cake or Estimar, but a charred goop with liquid Idiazábal.

I’m not talking about bold and balanced recipes like those out there John Cake either Assessmentbut of charred goop with liquid Idiazábal.

The worst moment of press conferences—previously called mangers, close to the semantic field of the goat—is when the head of the room smiles with a complicit gesture: “We have an excellent cheesecake.” And you already know that you don’t get rid of the baby goat on your palateat the risk of looking like a ruby.

as I said twilight joe, sometimes you think something is good just because you wrap your arms around it. And sometimes cooks think something is good just because they made it. I don’t have a problem with no-set cheesecake per se. but if I want cheese for dessert, I will order cheese for dessert.

In society, the idea has prevailed that a little of the same is good: Our asses are gassed by tortillas, more than sweet, moist, the last edge of which is in yellow exploding bags, a slimy tsunami of albumen that washes away the sublime delight of the interplay of churrascadita potato and candied onion and warm liquid cheesecakes (henceforth, PQLC). You go find out if the tendency of small pus it is a derivative of the famous liquid modernity and the fluidity of the transition between genres (I doubt it).

You go find out if the tendency of small pus it is a derivative of the famous liquid modernity and the fluidity of the transition between genres (I doubt it).

PQLC’s global dominance is a false triumph of the glocal: an “authentic” and “homemade” dessert—the two most empty words in history—that theoretically exports a piece of the Basque Country to the entire world. Actually, that’s about it multiple vulgarization of a cuisine, the Spanish, which has yet to find a way to sell itself to the world as effectively as the Mexican or the Italian. Certainly most of those who ask Basque burnt cheese pie before they’ve had some eggs benedict or a pork chop, in a cuqui restaurant full of pasta immigrants (ie aliens). Make me lose cake, I miss eating a good one freshly made apple pie —Does anyone remember this wonder of the no less wonderful La Biblioteca, in Raval, Barcelona? Iñaki, the owner and chef, is currently the kitchen coordinator at Fundesplai. Go back to the restaurant, man, we adults need you more.

The PQLC antidote It’s simple: leave the city and you’ll see that its influence diminishes as you move away from the city. And by God ask for local pastries. Whether it’s the sumptuous goxua from Vitoria or the blessed treats: macaroons, egg yolk and powdered sugar yo-yo that filled my childhood with joy and my love with fat, and before them pales the best macaron in the world. As far as I know they only make them at the bakery. Can Fabregas from Figueres. And here I am: avoiding goat breasts until they come back the tocinillo de cielo and the drunk wormwood. It will happen. ///

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